Kars…dancing and snow…

Turkey is a vast expanding country full of history, bordered by eight countries and is at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. Each time I learn of a location I’m amazed not only by the geographical and archaeological aspect of the area but the people who inhabit them, their cultural differences, hardships, achievements and their everyday life.

Funda

Kars holds a significant value to me as my sister in law is a music and dance teacher at Kars Kafkas Üniversitesi. Having studied music and dance at Gaziantep Üniversitesi (an equally interesting city) Funda worked hard to achieve her placement a long way from her hometown of Kahta in South Eastern Turkey. Funda is now joined by her niece who is studying science, the next family generation, following in her academic footsteps who she has taken under her wing. I think it must be pretty cool to have your aunt as a teacher in the same campus (or maybe not?).

Its not an easy life in Kars given at the moment it is -25C and can fall as much as -30C at night so I can imagine keeping warm is difficult, which is an understatement. Kars is a good 2000 meters above sea level making it one of the highest cities in Turkey, with no real summer months compared to that of ours here in Fethiye just a very short spring in June, July and August and the remaining months are harsh and with snow laden winters. It takes over 11 hours by bus for Funda and her niece to get back home to the family for a visit therefore a quick nip home at the weekend is out of the question.

So…what is Kars famous for? Once a busy bustling city on the Silk Road it is now famous for ts cold winters , Churches, Castles, Citadels, Russian and Ottoman Architecture ‘Kars contains numerous monuments, the most notable being the ruined Armenian city of Ani and the 9th century Church of the Apostles’ Ani is situated approximately 28 miles east of the Turkish / Armenian border. Imperial Russia occupied Kars from 1878 – 1920 which accounts for the Russian influenced architecture. The city is situated near lakes and mountain streams which regularly freeze in winter, Kars consists of two areas old (known as Kaleiçi) with narrow streets and buildings surrounding the Citadel and new (known as Taht Düzü) this became the residential area of neighbourhood in the 19th century Russian occupation, an ordered grid system with wide streets, and examples of Russian architecture. ‘Seeing Kars Before the Summer Ends’ is an informative travel piece from the Hurriyet Daily News

Cuisine wise they produce excellent butter, honey, Kars gravyer cheese very similar to gruyere also a Kasseri cheese made from sheeps milk and goose which is roasted or served in a stew. Other dishes such as “biþi” (fried pastry served on special occasions and ceremonies), “yaglı yufka” (another type of pastry), “erişte pilavı” (very like tagliatelle), “kuymak” (similar to polenta), “halva”, “ayran aşı” (soup made from the yoghurt beverage “ayran”), “kesme aşı”(soup made with strips of pasta) Please read ‘Eating out in Kars’ by ‘Istanbul Food‘ or if you just have a love for Turkish food!

The popular Turkish Novelist Orhan Pamuk book titled ‘Snow’ (Kar in Turkish) is set in Kars ‘The story encapsulates many of the political and cultural tensions of modern Turkey and successfully combines humor, social commentary, mysticism, and a deep sympathy with its characters.’

But mostly Kars is often a topic of conversation with us because of the harsh climate and how our relations are managing in the cold weather! Thankfully it was probably a more painless delivery for my older sister in law to leave her daughter in the safe care of Funda and know that she will be looked after. I do admire their endurance and ambition to succeed and they are a great asset to what is becoming a better era for female education in this particular part of Turkey. I know we wish them every success for their future and I’m very sure they will have many happy memories of their time spent in Kars. Please click on the images below and enjoy 🙂

Dance, when you’re broken open.
Dance, if you’ve torn the bandage off.
Dance in the middle of the fighting.
Dance in your blood.
Dance, when you’re perfectly free.
— Jelaluddin Rumi (13th century)